<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><?xml-stylesheet href="http://www.blogger.com/styles/atom.css" type="text/css"?><feed xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom' xmlns:openSearch='http://a9.com/-/spec/opensearchrss/1.0/' xmlns:georss='http://www.georss.org/georss' xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-386590140048473273</id><updated>2011-04-21T12:16:16.189-07:00</updated><title type='text'>Inboard Ski Boat Tech Tips</title><subtitle type='html'>This blog is not monitored for questions if you have any please go to our web site www.skidim.com and use the email link on the home page.</subtitle><link rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#feed' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://skidim.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/386590140048473273/posts/default?max-results=100'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://skidim.blogspot.com/'/><link rel='hub' href='http://pubsubhubbub.appspot.com/'/><author><name>Discount Inboard Marine</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12475425159724222726</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><generator version='7.00' uri='http://www.blogger.com'>Blogger</generator><openSearch:totalResults>1</openSearch:totalResults><openSearch:startIndex>1</openSearch:startIndex><openSearch:itemsPerPage>100</openSearch:itemsPerPage><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-386590140048473273.post-2169570131515407314</id><published>2008-10-23T08:08:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2008-10-28T07:28:04.164-07:00</updated><title type='text'>OJ Dripless Shaft Seal Installation</title><content type='html'>&lt;div align="center"&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;span style="font-size:130%;color:#000066;"&gt;Ski &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0"&gt;&lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0"&gt;Nautique&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt; 206 with &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1"&gt;&lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1"&gt;PCM&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt; ZR6&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5260371675413761794" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 286px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_iaw32YwX4xY/SQCYKwuQTwI/AAAAAAAAAAM/XLU_38F1QnE/s320/Dripless1.jpg" border="0" /&gt; 1. At this point the &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"&gt;&lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"&gt;driveshaft&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt; has been separated from the transmission coupler by removing the 4 bolts/&lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3"&gt;&lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3"&gt;locknuts&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;. This boat uses a 1-1/4" &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4"&gt;&lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4"&gt;nylock&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt; nut to retain the coupler to the shaft, some boats use a 1-1/16" nut, also make sure to remove (if any) set screws on the coupler. Using the ARE coupling wrench (Item #2215) and 1-1/4" socket wrench we were able to secure the shaft and loosen the nut. You could use a board between the prop and hull if no coupling wrench is available.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;*Notice we have plenty of room to get the socket wrench into the coupler, some boats you will not have enough &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5"&gt;&lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5"&gt;driveshaft&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt; length to get a &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6"&gt;regular&lt;/span&gt; socket wrench between the couplers. Consider Item #2216 or #2217 sockets with wrench flats for limited space.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-size:130%;color:#000000;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-size:130%;color:#000000;"&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5260385332078670178" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 270px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_iaw32YwX4xY/SQCklrw5cWI/AAAAAAAAAAU/PaiKvJuCqBA/s320/Dripless2.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;2. We now used 4 pieces of all-thread cut about 5" long with nuts on each end and placed a deep socket between the couplers. Tighten the couplers together evenly and the coupler should pop off. Single taper couplers will not pop and must be pressed all the way off (mark where the old coupler was positioned on the shaft before removal).&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5260394115893122290" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 278px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_iaw32YwX4xY/SQCsk-BdVPI/AAAAAAAAAAc/DxQba8TgzdY/s320/Dripless3.jpg" border="0" /&gt; 3. Dual tapered couplers will slide right off the shaft, single taper couplers keep cranking. Make sure to keep up with your &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7"&gt;&lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6"&gt;woodruf&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt; key or &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8"&gt;&lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7"&gt;keyway&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5260396693298568514" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 244px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_iaw32YwX4xY/SQCu6_mzXUI/AAAAAAAAAAk/BMUtQywFmsY/s320/Dripless4.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;4. Coupler removed.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5260397947857078786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 252px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_iaw32YwX4xY/SQCwEBM3CgI/AAAAAAAAAAs/Jfb-53RNQJs/s320/Dripless5.jpg" border="0" /&gt; 5. Loosen the 2 hose clamps and remove the stuffing box and hose. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5260735946356998850" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 243px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_iaw32YwX4xY/SQHjeHu8wsI/AAAAAAAAABI/WeCQ763hVBs/s320/Dripless6.jpg" border="0" /&gt;6. We have covered the end of the shaft with the supplied seal protector (gray plastic) to be sure not to damage the graphite o-rings when sliding the new seal onto the shaft. The seal is supplied with a cardboard tube to help keep the o-rings from constricting. If you have trouble sliding the seal onto the shaft insert a socket slightly larger than the cardboard tube and let it rest for a little to enlarge the o-rings.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5260735208930806114" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 243px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_iaw32YwX4xY/SQHizMm2CWI/AAAAAAAAABA/WqaKa9Tx4z4/s320/Dripless6.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;7. Seal &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9"&gt;securely&lt;/span&gt; hose clamped in place with water supply barb pointed towards the direction you want to route the hose.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5260754230195994514" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 243px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_iaw32YwX4xY/SQH0GYV3P5I/AAAAAAAAABQ/XQTXVX5H6DI/s320/Dripless8.jpg" border="0" /&gt;8. Coupler and &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10"&gt;safety&lt;/span&gt; &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11"&gt;collar&lt;/span&gt; back in place. Notice how the 2 couplers meet perfectly indicating good engine alignment (no more than .003 gap between the faces).  If you have a single taper shaft usually the coupler will need to be heated in an oven to expand it enough for reinstallation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5260755632608631122" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 243px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_iaw32YwX4xY/SQH1YAvF2VI/AAAAAAAAABY/ijgsBVwGocA/s320/Dripless14.jpg" border="0" /&gt;9. Water supply line run back to the 1" hose from the exhaust manifold to the thermostat housing.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5260756353262638962" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 243px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_iaw32YwX4xY/SQH2B9YZV3I/AAAAAAAAABg/u94yDNGZJRU/s320/Dripless15.jpg" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;10. This engine was fresh water cooled and presented a problem due to the short length of hose going into the rear of the exhaust manifold. Raw water cooled engines wont experience this due to the longer length of hose and location into the front of the manifold. The supplied t-fitting had to be cut shorter on each end and a 90 degree &lt;span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12"&gt;elbow&lt;/span&gt; was used to make the bend needed. Also since the hose was at a low point on the manifold we ran a loop of the water feed line higher than the manifold to prevent siphoning the water from the manifold when the engine was shut down. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p align="center"&gt;*If you have any questions give us a call (803) 345-0996*&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/386590140048473273-2169570131515407314?l=skidim.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://skidim.blogspot.com/feeds/2169570131515407314/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://skidim.blogspot.com/2008/10/oj-dripless-shaft-seal-installation.html#comment-form' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/386590140048473273/posts/default/2169570131515407314'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/386590140048473273/posts/default/2169570131515407314'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://skidim.blogspot.com/2008/10/oj-dripless-shaft-seal-installation.html' title='OJ Dripless Shaft Seal Installation'/><author><name>Discount Inboard Marine</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12475425159724222726</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_iaw32YwX4xY/SQCYKwuQTwI/AAAAAAAAAAM/XLU_38F1QnE/s72-c/Dripless1.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry></feed>
